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Sunday, 28 December 2008

Tuesday, 04 November 2008

  • Culinary School - Week 9

    Ok, here is in a nut shell.

    For the last 9 weeks (give or take) I have been actively participating in a culinary classes. Intro to Baking, Basic Food and theory, Nutrition. While I do this I also am working an average of 35/wk as a line cook for a popular restaurant chain.

    Between classes, work, scout meetings, trying to find time to study, trying to find time to spend with my spouse, trying to find time to spend with my sons, trying to find time to spend alone, I am exhausted.

    Classes are going well. I for the first time in my life am an "A" student. guess it has alot to do with the fact that I love cooking.

    right now I have studying to finish, so I will blog some later - when I can. -Out-


    -//-

Wednesday, 09 April 2008

  • 5 steps to self-actualization

    "Every human action, whether it has become positive or negative, must depend on motivation."

    -- Dalai Lama

    Monitoring what motivates me has helped me see how I am growing. I do things for different reasons now than I did 10 years ago. As we pay ongoing attention to our motives, we can see how both our conscious and unconscious attitudes are changing.

    Here are some ways that our motives can shift with rising consciousness:

    - I desire
    - I want to collect things
    - I want to know
    - I want to serve
    - I want to be

    What are your motives as you participate in life?

    "There are three kinds of people and three kinds of richness:
    - people who want to have, to collect
    - people who want action, work and labor
    - people who want to be
    The real richness is in be-ness. People can take all that you have, all that you collected. People can stop your labor, or an accident can stop you. When you are, you never lose what you are."

    -- Torkom Saraydarian

    "You are what you think. You are what you go for. You are what you do!"

    -- Bob Richards

    "A good intention clothes itself with power."

    -- Ralph Waldo Emerson

Thursday, 20 March 2008

  • Envelope & Letter Folding

    My kids have asked me in the past to fold an envelope for them so they can pass notes to their gf's in school. Since I remember the intricately folded notes I got in school from my gf's, and could very refold much less reproduce and any functional way. I did some internet reseach and this is what I found:

    There is a minimum standard for letter size (3-1/2" x 5" US or 89mm x 127mm), it has something to do with the automated sorting process used by USPS

    Letterfu has some nice designs/layouts for letters and they are printable via pdf making it very easy and a very simple folding project.

    While ghh.com has a section on just letter and envelope folding, large selection of letter fold styles; fantastic site and informative. "And I sound like a teacher"

    Both papercrafty and instructables offer the same letter-fold example so I included both sites. Most cuz I can.

    I content below I found on someone else's blog. Thought it was a inventive alternative to the use of a letter-fold, so I included it all.

    Enjoy. -//-

    Shamrock Book Corner/Mark June 12, 2007

    Posted by caveblogem in Books, DIY, Origami, how to, luck or time, statistical analysis.
    1 comment so far

    I find a lot of four-leaf clovers, which some people consider to be lucky (um, not the finding, I think, but the possession thereof).  The first couple I found I gave away as presents, after laminating them, but there was nothing particularly elegant about lamination.  And I have quite a few, now–I stopped counting at thirty. And laminating is boring and expensive. 

    So I’ve been looking for some other way of presenting them to people.  Because what am I going to do with all these things?  It occurred to me a couple of weeks ago that I could put them inside paper, onionskin or tracing paper, possibly translucent vellum, so that they could be used as bookmarks.  Problem was that unless you put some sort of tassel on them, they will stick out of the book and part of the mark will get mushed.  They might get knocked loose, which would also suck.  Anyway, yesterday I finally happened upon a solution, which is to make book corners out of them. 

    The design for this is that of a letterfold, the K-Letterfold, which is diagrammed here, at my favorite letter and envelope folding site.  I don’t use the K-Letterfold much for actual letters, because it comes out too small to actually post through U.S. mail when you use paper of standard dimensions.  But it is perfect for this particular purpose (see below, click to enlarge).

    Front View

    Back View

    The book is Nicholas Rescher’s Luck: The Brilliant Randomness of Everyday Life.  Much better, printable, concise, instructions and diagram are at this site (look under K-Letterfold on the side-bar), but I am putting step-by step instructions below so that you can see where the shamrock goes in the folding process.

    Step 1: I started out with a 6 inch by 8 inch (15.24 cm x 20.32 cm) sheet of tracing paper.  The pictures below are for the same size white sheet, which shows the folds and the position of the shamrock.  It is best to fold the thing first, then unfold it and place the shamrock (or whatever flat keepsake or flower or whatever) inside and refold it.  It is less likely to damage the delicate dried plant if you wrestle with the paper and crease it first. 

    Step 2: Fold one corner snug against the side.

    Step 3: Fold the top side down to meet the edge of the paper.

    Step 4: Fold paper in half and then unfold.  Then fold it in a quarter towards the crease in the middle.  Yeah, I know that’s two steps.  Second one is like 4 and 1/2.  O.K.?

    Step 5: Fold the other quarter to meet the center crease.  Now comes the tricky part. 

    Step 6: Tuck the pointy part at the bottom into the slot in the middle.

    Step 7: Then slide it all the way to the top inside, so that the little crevasse (seen in the picture below in a not-quite-closed-but-almost-closed state) closes as completely as it can.

    Step 8: Turn over and tuck the remaining untucked corner into the other inside slot . . . carefully.

    Of all the letterfolds this is one of the most stable.  It simply does not open accidentally, even when sent through the mails without any adhesive devices to keep it closed.  And as you will see, it can be used vertically or horizontally, so that the side with the clover is always on the page that you are attempting to mark.


Friday, 07 March 2008

  • Guide To Lacing

    This is one of a few site I have found for lacing shoes. Fun and entertaining as I find it, this new hobby is only as expensive as shoes and laces. But since I think the more laces the better - the more fun.

    Ian's is another site I like, it's also very detailed on lacing and knots.

    Enjoy!! -//-

    GUIDE TO LACING

    One area of sneakerology we’ve somehow managed to avoid is the vital area of laces. Personally, we keep ours loose and we prefer cotton over nylon, other than that, it’s straight vanilla round here – no crazy lattice switchups or duo-colour checkerboards. Recently however, we were introduced to ian fieggen (aka Professor Shoelace) and were humbled by his academic knowledge of this black art. The p-rof has created, without doubt, the best shoelace website in the universe www.shoe-lacing.com Here, he laments his latent love of laces and introduces fifteen of his personal favourite ways of rigging rides, including helpful diagrams. Then we learn how to modify your aglets to the correct length and tie his very own ‘ian’ knot, the world’s fastest way of shackling sneaks. Just don’t mention velcro or boondoggles! (not.)

    GUIDE TO LACING

    1. The lace is run straight across the bottom and emerges through both bottom eyelets 2. The laces then go straight up and are fed into the next set of eyelets up the shoe 3. The ends are crossed over and are fed under the vertical lace section on the opposite sides of the shoe before going straight up and into the next set of eyelets up the shoe 4. At the top set of eyelets, the laces can once again cross over and pass under the straight section as shown. This not only looks consistent with the rest of the lacing but also forms a High Lace Lock, which tightens the lacing even more firmly.

     

     

    GUIDE TO LACING

    1. The lace is run straight across the bottom and emerges through both bottom eyelets 2. The ends are looped back under the lace where it feeds under the side of the shoe 3. The ends are then crossed over each other, then they go under and out through the next set of eyelets up the shoe 4. Steps 2 and 3 are repeated until both ends reach the top eyelets.

     

     

    GUIDE TO LACING

    1. The lace runs straight across the second set of eyelets from the top of the shoe 2. Cross the ends over and feed into the fourth set of eyelets, skipping the third set 3. Continue down the shoe, two sets of eyelets at a time 4. At the bottom, run the laces vertically between the bottom and second from bottom eyelets 5. Double back and work your way back up the shoe through the vacant sets of eyelets.

     

     

    GUIDE TO LACING

    1. The lace is run straight across the bottom and emerges through both bottom eyelets 2. The left (red) end is spiralled up the left side of the shoe, with the end fed under and emerging from each eyelet 3. The right (orange) lace is spiralled up the right side of the shoe, at each eyelet looping through the left (blue) lace in the middle of the shoe before feeding under and emerging from the next eyelet.

     

     


    GUIDE TO LACING

    1. The lace is run straight across the bottom and emerges through both bottom eyelets 2. One end of the lace (orange end) runs straight up the right side, is fed into and runs straight across the second set of eyelets 3. Both ends now run straight up the left side, each skipping one eyelet before feeding in two eyelets higher up 4. Continue running both ends across the shoe, then straight up two eyelets at a time 5. At the top of the shoe, the laces end up on the same side and the shoelace knot is tied at that point.

     

     

    GUIDE TO LACING

    1. The lace runs straight across the bottom and the ends are fed into both bottom eyelets 2. One end of the lace (orange end) runs straight up the right side, emerges from and runs straight across the second set of eyelets 3. The other end (red end) runs diagonally underneath and, skipping the 2nd set of eyelets, emerges from and runs straight across the 3rd set of eyelets 4. Continue running each lace diagonally across and up 2 sets of eyelets until one end (orange in my example) reaches the top right eyelet 5. The other end (red in my example) then runs straight up the left side to emerge from the top left eyelet.

     

     

    GUIDE TO LACING

    1. The lace runs straight across and emerges from the third set of eyelets from the bottom 2. Both ends run straight down and are fed into the second set of eyelets from the bottom 3. Both ends again run straight down and emerge from the bottom set of eyelets 4. Both ends now run straight up along the outside and are fed into the fourth set of eyelets (the first vacant pair) 5. The ends are crossed over each other, then they go under and out through the next set of eyelets up the shoe 6. Repeat step (5) until both ends reach the top.

     

     

    GUIDE TO LACING

    1. The lace is run straight across the bottom and is fed into rather than emerging from both bottom eyelets 2. The ends are crossed over, then inserted into the next set of eyelets up the shoe 3. This process is repeated until both ends reach the top eyelets and end up inside.

     

     

    GUIDE TO LACING

    1. The lace runs straight across the bottom and emerges through both bottom eyelets 2. Skipping two sets of eyelets, cross the ends over and feed into the fourth set of eyelets 3. Both ends now run straight down one eyelet and emerge from the third set of eyelets 4. Continue up the shoe, each time crossing over and going up three sets of eyelets, then straight down to emerge from the next set of eyelets below.

     

     

    GUIDE TO LACING

    1. The lace is run straight across the bottom and emerges through both bottom eyelets 2. The ends are twisted together with one complete twist in the middle of the shoe 3. The ends then continue across to the opposite sides, where they go under and out through the next set of eyelets up the shoe 4. This process is repeated until both ends reach the top eyelets.

     

     

    GUIDE TO LACING

    1. The lace runs straight across the bottom and emerges from both bottom eyelets 2. Cross the ends over and feed into the 4th \u0003set of eyelets up the shoe (skip past 2 sets of eyelets) 3. Both ends now run straight up and emerge from the 5th set of eyelets 4. Cross the ends over and feed into the 2nd set of eyelets up the shoe (skip past 2 sets of eyelets) 5. Both ends now run straight up and emerge from the 3rd set of eyelets 6. Cross the ends over, feed under and emerge from the top set of eyelets (skip past 2 sets of eyelets).

     

     

    GUIDE TO LACING

    1. The lace is run diagonally and emerges from the bottom left and the top right eyelets 2. The top (red) end of the lace is zig-zagged from the top set of eyelets down to the middle eyelets in a similar manner to the Shoe Shop Lacing 3. The bottom (orange) end of the lace is similarly zig-zagged from the bottom set of eyelets up to the middle eyelets.

     

     

    GUIDE TO LACING

    1. Start with two pairs of different colour laces, preferably the wide, flat variety (I was lucky to receive two such pairs with my last runners!) 2. With one colour (orange in my example), lace the shoe using either Straight (Fashion) or Straight (Lazy) Lacing 3. With the other colour (red in my example), start at the bottom of the shoe and weave the lace in and out of the other lace until you reach the top 4. Fold around the top lace and head back down, weaving out and in until you reach the bottom 5. Continue across the shoe until you’re out of room or out of lace, whichever comes first 6. Tuck all the loose ends of the laces into the shoe.

     

     

    GUIDE TO LACING

    1. The lace runs straight across the bottom and emerges from both bottom eyelets 2. Cross the ends over and feed into the 4th set of eyelets up the shoe (skip past 2 sets of eyelets) 3. Both ends now run straight up and emerge from the 5th set of eyelets 4. Cross the ends over and feed into the 2nd set of eyelets up the shoe (skip past 2 sets of eyelets) 5. Both ends now run straight up and emerge from the 3rd set of eyelets 6. Cross the ends over, feed under and emerge from the top set of eyelets (skip past 2 sets of eyelets).

     

     

    GUIDE TO LACING

    1. Take two different colour laces, each a tiny bit longer than the correct length for the shoes 2. Cut them not quite in half, but offset by two or three centimetres. See below for how to calculate the difference in length between the two halves 3. Tie one shorter piece of one colour (orange in my example) and one longer piece of the other colour (red in my example) firmly together and trim off the excess. For extra security, add a dab of glue. Use the remaining pieces to make the bi-colour lace for the other shoe 4. Pull the longer (red) end out through the bottom right eyelet, feeding from inside the shoe, until you reach the joining knot 5. Now lace the rest of the shoe as per Straight (Fashion) Lacing.

    To read the full story from Professor Shoelace, click here


CarloG

  • Visit CarloG's Xanga Site
    • Name: Carlo G
    • Country: United States
    • State: Indiana
    • Metro: South Bend
    • Gender: Male
    • Member Since: 6/8/2003

About Me

  • "There isn't anything that isn't made easier through familiarity and constant training. Through training we can change; we can transform ourselves." - Dalai Lama